Page 85 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

over all but one of the threads in the other direction.
Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a
re-arranged weft faced twill. Thus satin is the reverse
side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important
category of weaves. They are used in combination with
other weaves, particularly in case of ornamented fabrics.
The striking feature of these weaves is their bright
appearance and smooth feel. (Fig 9)

Characteristics of diaper design
1 Diaper design combines horizontal herring bone and
vertical herring bone.

2 Broken draft or straight draft is used to produce diaper
design.
3 The repeat size of warp is equal to weft. The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are

4 Diaper design is used to produce towel, bed cover, • They are either warp or weft faced weaves.
table cover, pillow cover etc. • Have no prominent weave structures.
5 Broken twill (Fig 8) • Only one binding point in each end or pick
Broken twills offer an alternative to conventional twill • No continuous twill lines
weaves. Traditional twills produce uniform diagonal lines
through a regular sequence of interlacing warp and weft • Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
threads. In contrast, broken twills intentionally disrupt • More thread density is possible in warp and weft
these sequences. This disruption creates “breaks” in
the diagonal pattern. The result is a fabric that features • More mass per unit area is possible
visual and textural complexity, ideal for high-end fashion, • Have less binding points and more float lengths
upholstery, and technical applications.
• Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is
necessary to construct these weaves.
In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching
points of warp or weft for a given repeat size is done by
the use of move numbers or stitch or float numbers. The
move numbers are selected according to the repeat size
of the weave.

Satin weave can be classified into two types –
regular and irregular: In regular satin weaves, the
weave structure follows a continuous regular pattern in
a repeat size. However, in irregular satin weave, there
is no uniform weave pattern. Half of the repeat size has
a pattern and the remaining half has a different weave
pattern. But the main property of a satin weave i.e., every
column or row of a satin weave in a given repeat size
Broken twill can be obtained in different ways. At first must have an up point of a warp.
basic twill is divided into two section, then the first section A regular satin weave is specified by two parameters
unchanged and the second section is reverse its order, i.e., repeat size and move number. The repeat size of
that is to say if the basic twill is made up of 8 warp threads a satin weave must be greater than its move number.
namely1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 then its broken twill derivatives will There is a specific relation between the two which must
obtain the order 1,2,3,4,8,7,6,5. be satisfied to create a satin weave. The move number
Broken draft is used in broken twill. must be greater than 1 and less than repeat size. Also,
there should not be any common factor between the
Satin and sateen weave: Satin and sateen are two move number and the repeat size.
similar types of weave where the surface of the fabric
consists almost entirely of floated warp or weft threads.
During the weaving process, the warp/weft threads pass
Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.43-48 75